We spent two weeks in Tokyo in October. (We had “seen the country” in 2017, so this stay was more about this mega-metropolis.)
Here are four takeaways:
First, Japan is not a country of zen-aesthetics. Marie Kondo first got famous inside Japan because they have so much clutter. This article explains how Edo-era Japan* was so “circular” (reusing and repairing everything) because they had so few resources and were not trading (more below). When Japan opened to the world, and caught up, and got rich, then the Japanese indulged themselves as much as Americans would with consumption. The only reason they don’t consume even more is — as in the Netherlands — a lack of cheap space. Read more here.
Second, I was confused about how the Americans forced Japan to open up to trade — via the Black ships of 1853 — when trade is supposed to be a voluntary, “win-win” proposition. This summary from Perplexity explains that the Americans gave itself favorable terms of trade, etc., which is why the Japanese did not benefit as much as they would have with (really) free trade. What’s a bit ironic (or karmic) is how the American navy bullied Japan in 1853 and the Japanese navy returned the favor in 1941 (but without ultimate success). Now that all of that history is “under the bridge” (in terms of political rhetoric — see Xi’s ongoing complains about “the century of humiliation” for a counterpoint), Japan and the US are best buds.
Third, the Japanese are very risk averse, perhaps due to a history of natural disasters, perhaps due to a history of getting your head cut off for making a mistake. The result, culturally, is extreme planning (more than even the Dutch!) to ensure that everything is mapped out and discussed ahead of time. So the bullet trains have never had an accident, but that’s also a sign of taking too few chances. This risk-averse culture also explains how the Japanese public get very upset when the government screws up — e.g., taking 13 years to admit to the Minamata poisoning or the badly-handled Fukushima accident (more people died from the evacuation than the radiation). I’m not saying that government’s should be happy about mistakes, but they should be a little more humble about errors.
Fourth, the Japanese are almost as enthusiastic about cars as Americans, but they also avoid over-doing it. So cars are ubiquitous, and roads are designed for cars rather than bikes. We enjoyed the freedom of biking, but (a) had to fight with Google maps, which kept directing us off calm streets and towards major roads and (b) constantly needed to go around cars and trucks double parked in bike lanes. Watch this video for the pros and cons of Tokyo’s urban design.
Bottom line: Japan’s culture and history need time to understand and appreciate.
H/T to SC
*Bonus: I was really surprised to learn that daytime hours – the actual length of an hour — in Edo-Japan were longer in summer and shorter in winter, since daylight was evenly allocated among the same number of hours. This clock face shows how the “duration” of an hour was adjusted as the season progressed. The Meiji Restoration (more like a revolution!) brought 60 minute hours… and Seiko watches!